DINING OUT:
RACQUEL’S PASTA HOUSE

400 7th North Street
(Exit 25 off Route 81)
Liverpool NY
(315) 451-1511 ext.503

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by Sue Brode

On the recent Saturday evening when my husband and I decided to give RACQUEL'S a try, the new "pasta house" in Liverpool was jumping. We arrived at 7:30 P.M. and entered through the bar, which was crowded with sports fans. Some had been to the latest S.U. game while others had spent the day watching sports on the large TV. Everyone appeared to be in a good, though reasonably restrained mood. We proceeded into the dining room, likewise full of customers. We gathered that the solid crowd was a combination of regular diners, who had tried RACQUEL'S before and liked what they found, and curiosity-seekers who had caught Yolanda's highly positive review in a recent issue of the POST-STANDARD. The hostess escorted us to a quiet table where we spent the next several hours enjoying various items on the menu of this still relatively new dining spot.

The approach here is to combine the best qualities of family dining with those of gourmet restaurants. Shelden Green, the chef, comes up with elegant taste treats while the owners, Racquel and Jim Keller, see to it that the portions are extremely generous. So RACQUEL'S should appeal equally to gourmets and gourmands. The new establishment is located in what once was the Day's Inn, Liverpool, but which since has been transformed into the more upscale Maplewood Inn. Jim and Racquel had been running the bar in the Day's and were interested in trying something a bit more ambitious. Learning about the new plans for the hotel itself, they began designing a new restaurant from the ground up. Pretty much all the choices were made by the husband-wife team, with Racquel overseeing the decor, which had to be 'right' for a commercial venue yet at the same time quietly appealing for a casual yet 'something special' sort of a place. They worked at achieving a balance between a restaurant that would be family-friendly yet, at the same time, offer a touch of class for those in the mood for true cuisine. A restaurant that would provide service to those staying at the hotel while also attracting Central New Yorkers who have long since learned that 'hotel food' can now be as good (even better) than anything else in town. Allowing chef Sheldon a great deal of freedom in creating the menu, the trio formed a three musketeers team and set out to create a place with an identity all its own.

The ANTIPASTO section of the menu features some old reliables as well as a number of unique and appealing items. Running between $5.95 and $10.95 each (with most of the items running approximately eight dollars), diners can choose between Baked Italian Cheese Bread (basted with garlic butter, covered with fresh mozzarella and asiago cheese, then baked to a golden brown), Garden Bruschetta (topped with a fresh salsa verde, complimented with fresh basil and roasted red pepper pesto), and Grilled Shrimp (large shrimp wrapped in Prosciutto di Parma, grilled and served with lemon, roasted red pepper pesto). There's also tomato parmesan, fried ravioli, basil Pomodoro, and spiced shrimp cocktail. We decided to try a couple of our all-time favorite appetizers which we found on the RACQUEL'S menu. I ordered Calamari Fritte, fresh calamari rings, hand breaded and deep fried, served with a spicy red sauce, fresh lemon, and caper. The taste was unique and satisfying, the various adornments adding to the item's pleasure. Also, the portion was immense! Meanwhile, my husband went for (what else is new?) the clams. He appreciated that these were not merely steamed in the ordinary manner (not that there's anything wrong with that), but sauteed in olive oil, crushed red pepper, fresh garlic, white wine, sun dried tomatoes, and basil. So in addition to his beloved clams (large and fresh, by the way), he had the chance to try a totally different serving style and enjoyed the combination of an old favorite plus a new way of presenting and serving them.

SOUP choices include the Onion Soup Gratine ($5.95), the Tuscan White Bean ($4.95), and the soup of the day. I opted for the onion, my personal favorite, and loved the fact that in this case the caramelized onions were prepared in a combination of beef and chicken broth (the way it's supposed to be, though many venues opt for beef only). Also, that a hint of rich sherry was added for an extra kick, and that the cheese topping was mozzarella and provolone combined. My husband heartily approved of the Bean, taken from an old family recipe that calls for white beans, tomatoes, chicken broth and fresh herbs. The blend of tastes proved as interesting as it was satisfying.

INSALATA can be served with Caesar, Ranch, Creamy Bleu, Crumbly Blue, Balsamic Vinaigrette, Catalina French, or italian. These include a mixed green, Caesar, Salad Caprese (sliced roma tomatoes layered with fresh mozzarella and basil) and Spinach Salad. These are priced between $4.95 and $6.95. We went for the Antipasti Salad, which can be served in two sizes, small ($6.95) or large ($10.95). We split a 'small' and found that even this was so abundant that we couldn't finish it all. A terrific combination includes mixed green salad of romaine, iceberg, radicchio, which are then topped with tomatoes, olives, onions, provolone cheese, and a terrific diversity of Italian deli meats.

PASTA DISHES (prepared to order and served with a house salad and fresh Italian bread, as are all the entrees) include Farfalle Asiago, Rigatoni with Broccoli, Linguini Con Vongole (tender clams), Three Tenors Pasta (anchovies, tomatoes, parsley, oil, and pepper), and Potato Gnocchi, as well as more than a half dozen others. RACQUEL'S features a variety of pastas including penne, rigatoni, thin spaghetti, linguine, farfalle, fettuccine, and cavatelli. Also, there are numerous sauces to choose from: Red pomodoro, garlic, asiago cream, diavolo, bolognese, lemon butter, and pesto among them. We asked Racquel what the most frequently ordered is, and she told us that the Asiago has become a huge hit with many repeat customers. My husband and I tried it over pasta and soon learned why: creamy and rich, this could be a meal in and of itself.
And, in fact, sometimes is!

CLASSICO dishes are ones that have proven particularly popular with fans of fine Italian cuisine. They include Shrimp Scampi, Veal or Chicken Marsala, Veal or Chicken Picatta, Chicken Lemone, Seafood Pasta, Seared Scallops and Broccoli, and the Delmonico Steak, a 16 to 18 oz. portion of tender prime, seasoned and grilled to the customer's liking. Served with pasta and vegetable of the day. Items on the Classico menu run in price from $16.95 to $23.95.

There are also Racquel's SPECIALTIES, running in price from $14.95 to $19.95. These include Lasagna, Chicken Riggies, Vegetarian Lasagna, Grilled Lemon Tuna, chicken or Veal Parm, Racquel's Pasta Pie, Herb Roasted pork Chop, and Tuscan Sliced Steak, among others. As a beef lover, I opted for the New York Strip Steak, seasoned well with Italian herbs and served with potato and vegetable. My husband had the Grilled Sea Bass, a flaky and tender Chilean variety, grilled and topped with lemon butter, tomato salsa and drizzled with herb pesto. A delicate delight and surprisingly large serving!

For those with a light appetite or a tight budget, RACQUEL'S features various pizzas ranging in price from $7.95 to $9.95, everything from plain pie to ones with diced vegetables, olives, mushrooms, prosciutto, roma tomatoes, etc.

"Leave room for the desserts," everyone warned us. They were right! My husband enjoyed one of his favorites, Biscotti, while I indulged in the Brownie Sundae, huge enough to feed a family. There's also Cannoli, Carrot Cake, Tiramisu, creme Brule, and for those who want something more conventionally American, New york Cheesecake. My husband accompanied his dessert with a delicious Cappuccino while I enjoyed one of the various blends of gourmet tea.

RACQUEL'S has varied catering services, which can serve up to 200 persons on the site or provide various items for other places. All in all, a worthy addition to the CNY restaurant scene!

RACQUEL'S is located at 400 7th North Street, Liverpool NY (Exit 25 off Route 81). Please call 315-451-1511 ext.503 for more info and/or reservations. PLEASE mention that you read about RACQUEL'S in the Dining Out column of TABLE HOPPING!

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