DINING OUT:
Pensabenes: A Family Tradition3380 Milton Avenue
(at the corner of Onondaga Road)
Camillus, NY
(315) 454-4180by Heather Kipping
Traditions are important; they ground us in a fast-paced world. Stop by Pensabenes and experience the strength of a family that has kept the Pensabene tradition in dining alive.
Some family traditions are definitely worthwhile and Pensabenes Park West Restaurant is certainly one of them. Located at 3380 Milton Avenue (at the corner of Onondaga Road) in Camillus, here is the current offering of the Pensabene family, which has been serving the Syracuse community for almost 100 years.
It all started back with Antonio and Virginia Pensabene who emigrated from Calabria, Italy to America in the early 1900s. This hard-working and dedicated couple opened their first family business in 1934. The rest is history and a prosperous (and prominent) one at that. Mom and Dad started the family restaurant business and by 1946, the eldest son "Joe" and Ernestine Shelter had built the growing institution into a local neighborhood social gathering place. All generations of the family could be found working together in this endeavor including grandparents, parents and children. It has been a true family affair from inception and after meeting owner Jeff Pensabene, I understand why they would have it no other way.
Jeff and his brother Terry are committed to carrying on the tradition of quality in dining and are proud of what their family has provided to the community over the past 100 years. Whats most impressive about this enterprise is that they know exactly who they are and they have no desire to become anything else. They refer (with pride) to it as "Our Familys Restaurant." Whats interesting is that the Pensabenes family is widespread beyond the nuclear family. I discovered that the Pensabene family may consist of a mom and dad, the kids and grandkids, but what is charming about this story is that they have adopted an extended family, the local neighborhood. Even employees are treated with familial kindness and respect.
When we entered the restaurant, I noticed there were three main dining rooms, not too large, creating a cozy atmosphere on a chilled winters eve. I was in eye shot (and ear shot) of the reception area and couldnt help but notice the receptionist addressing each patron by their first name as they arrived through the door. I soon came to understand that this is a restaurant of "regulars," those folks living in the community. They have become an important part of the Pensabene family from the beginning of life to the end. Pensabenes Restaurant is called upon by the local community to be there for christenings, baby and bridal showers, weddings, and funerals. Its evolved into a tradition on the west end of town.
There is a full range of appetizers, soups, salads on the dinner menu. Every day there are several "specials" offered on the main menu, including soups. The locals know that on Mondays they will find their Sauerbraten with Noodles and Yankee Pot Roast waiting for them at Pensabenes. The dinner menu is well laid out and displays sections of pasta dishes, a Butchers Block with various meat dishes including fresh Veal Parmesan (($11.95), Prime Rib (10oz. for $12.95 or King Cut, $16.95), Chicken Parmesan, Ham Steak with Pineapple (11.50), and Calf Liver with onions and bacon for $13.50. If you are looking for traditional fare cooked with fresh ingredients and prepared consistently well on a daily basis, youve found your spot.
In fact, Grandma Pensabenes Spaghetti Sauce is still made from scratch and her homemade meatballs (a secret recipe) are still being hand-rolled for the pasta dishes served here daily. Jeff Pensabene calls it "comfort food". Hes right - it IS reassuring to know you can sit down any day of the week and be able to depend on getting a good old-fashioned comforting meal at this restaurant.
Pizza purists will be delighted with Pensabenes garlic pizza ($9.95) that we choose as an appetizer, combining fresh mozzarella and provolone cheeses. The thin crust (homemade daily) is flavorful and perfectly textured: the crispy, blackened bottom combined with a moist, slightly yeasty fullness. If you like toppings on your pizza, Pensabenes offers a wide array of high quality choices; cheese, the "Special Pizza" with sausage, and mushrooms, and The Broccoli and Chicken Wing pizzas are offered on the regular menu.
Pizza is a tradition at Pensabenes. Dozens are ordered for "after games" and Moms and Dads stop in after sporting events, downing slices in the Tap Room while visiting with other parents. Pensabenes loves the after-game crowd; join the locals and enjoy a beer among friends.
For our dinner choices, my husband and I opted for two of the evening specials, Yankee Pot Roast ($8.95) and the 16 oz. T-bone Steak ($16.95). The pot roast was accompanied by mashed potatoes and deep rich gravy, true comfort food at its best. The huge T-bone Steak was cooked to order and arrived to the table paired with a customary baked potato; a satisfying meal for any meat-lover. With our dinners, we order two drinks made from trendy Pomegranate Liqueur. Our waitress Suzie, who has worked at Pesebenes for the past eight years, told us that the "Pensatini" liqueur was specially made and named after the restaurant. The Pensatini looks like a martini and the Pama Rita could rival any pink Marguerita. These drinks were light and refreshing; we highly recommend them.
Desserts are not listed on the menu but are always offered. They are homemade and mouth-watering; definitely worth the calories. We tried the carrot cake covered with the customary cream cheese frosting; it was moist and rich; just as it should be. The Lemon Raspberry Cake was light and bursting with citrus; a perfect choice at the end of a filling meal.
Pensabenes does not take dinner reservations, but will accommodate large parties. If theres a wait, make yourself at home in the tap room and enjoy a selection from a wide variety of wines and draft and bottled beer. You can even order off the Tap Room Menu from a nice variety of appetizers or indulge in Park West famous open steak sandwich. They are open seven days a week for lunch and dinner.
Jeff Pensabene encourages his patrons to "bring the kids." Its also worth mentioning the Pensabenes Casa Grande, a catering service located at 135 State Fair Boulevard, close to the main restaurant. They offer catering with experienced service while maintaining their homemade quality.
Plan your next special event there, you wont be disappointed.Our waitress Suzie couldnt have said it better when she remarked, "Its a good place to eat; its a good place to work." There is no doubt that food has a way of nurturing the soul, but I must say that what "warmed" me the most during my visit to Pensabenes was the endearing presence of the owner and staff that I had the pleasure of sharing a tasty meal with. Thanks for taking me in on a cold winters night and making me a part of your family.