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DINING OUT:
PAISAN'S ITALIAN AMERICAN FAMILY RESTAURANT1828 Upper Butternut Street
Syracuse, NY
(315) 454-4180
(View Map)by Sue Brode
If the term "neighborhood restaurant" didn't already exist, it would have to be created to describe PAISAN'S, a friendly, feel-good Italian restaurant located at 1828 Butternut St in Syracuse. For the past thirteen years, owners Dave and Virginia Fofi have been turning out bountiful platters of good food for what has become a kind of large extended family. Those who regularly turn up at PAISAN'S are always asked at the door about their relatives and the like, so a first-time diner here might get the impression that everyone is kin. Well, kind of, but not necessarily in terms of blood ties. Show up a second time and you'll receive the same warm treatment. Though my husband and I hadn't been to PAISAN'S in several years, the first thing everyone wanted to know was what we'd been up to in the intervening time. Several younger and older members of the restaurant's large family also stopped by for some well-wishing and catching up. Everyone remembered things we'd talked about "last time" we were in.
In the previous paragraph, I used the word "bountiful." That's almost an understatement when talking about PAISAN'S. The plates are more like platters and they are always overflowing. At the same time, the prices are kept as low as possible. Here are several examples from the appetizer menu. I tried the Calmari Rings (homemade, of course) and found the meat to be fresh and chewy, the batter crisp and tasty A large serving costs 5.95. Always the great fan of clams, my husband had to choose between two possibilities: Steamed clams or Clams Provencial. He finally went with the latter, to get a sense of PAISAN'S own personal approach to the seasoning, and found their mixture of sauces and spices delicious. Now, here's the most important part: The price of either of those items will surprise you: $3.95 for steamed clams and $5.95 for Provencal. That's lower than at most places we've visited lately.
But the news only gets better. Because in each case, that's for TWO dozen clams! There's the bountiful part I was talking about.
Clams Casino (six for $5.95) are also on the appetizer menu, as well as Battered Zucchini ($4.75) and Mozzarella Stix ($4.75), and other such expected items as Shrimp cocktail ($5.95). Though we didn't try any of these, others who had stopped by on that snowy evening did. All the food looked fresh and smelled great on its way from the kitchen to the tables.
Though all dinner entrees are served with soup or salad, we ordered the soup so that we could also try the Antipasto ($5.25 for small, $6.95 large). With lots of lettuce complimented by Italian meats, cheeses, and other items, it's a meal in itself. The soups of the day ($1.99 per cup, $2.95 per bowl) are of the hearty variety, homemade of course and done in the styles
of Pasta Fazoul and Greens and Beans. Delicious and rich enough that, with the antipasto, this could have been dinner. Easily!For people with lighter appetites or those who only want a snack, there's Wings, served mild, hot, or BBQ. These are priced at $4.90 (13), $7.90 (26), and $13.95 (52). Also, various other speciality 'sides' including Tomato and Onion Salad ($2.25). An extensive sandwich menu features items running in price from $4.75 to $5.95, including such "HOAGIES" as meatball with onions, peppers, or mushrooms, sausage or steak served the same way (combos available too), and chicken, fish, Italian Coldcuts and Haddock Reuban, a speciality of the house.
PAISAN'S also features several specials that draw in not only numerous neighbors from the Butternut St. community but other Syracusans and Central New Yorkers who've heard about the immense portions, high quality, and relatively low cost. Saturday and Thursday nights, there's Prime Rib served either Italian or Cajun style, with pasta or potato AND soup or salad, for $13.95; plain prime rib is $12.95 those evenings. Sunday, all day is PAISAN'S Pasta Platter: Lasagna, Eggplant Parmigiana, two Ravioli, one Manicotti, and a Baked Zitti, served with soup or salad, for $8.95 a person.
Obviously, pasta is a recommended dish here. A LA CARTE PASTAS served any time include spaghetti, shells or ziti These items are priced at $5.75 (plain) or $6.40 for any with a side of meatballs, mushrooms, peppers, broccoli, or sausage.
An immense selection of dinner entrees includes steak, pork, chicken, seafood, and wide variety of Italian specialities, including many veal dishes. The steak and veal came highly recommended so we decided to try one of each. I opted for the New York Strip Steak ($12.95), absolutely delicious and one of the largest that I've ever been served. My husband had the Veal Francaise ($13.95), fresh and tender with a light sauce that rivals those served in self-styled/self-announced gourmet restaurants. Besides being delicious, he received three immense helpings of veal instead of the usual one or at best two at this price. He insists that the Veal Francaise is as good as he's had in any of the area's trendier (and less comfy) spots.
A KIDS CORNER features children's items priced between $1.00 and $5.95. And in addition to the expected chicken fingers, this includes such speciality items as Pasta Alfredo.
For those who would rather share a pizza rather than have a full dinner, the Medium (16") is done large rectangular size. Beginning with the basic Cheese or Garlic at $7.50, prices move upward to include sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, onions, meatballs, and peppers, as well as such items as broccoli and anchovies on request.
We enjoyed the desserts (like everything else, these are served MORE than you can eat style!). At $3.25 each, they include cheese cake, rice pudding, homeade cobbler (when available), carrot cake, boston creme pie, and triple chocolate cake.
There is a daily lunch and nightly specials. The full menu is available for take-out. (call 454 - 4180). Catering for all occasions is available.
Business hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 11 A.M. to 10:00 P.M. On Friday, 11:00 A.M. to 11 P.M. Saturdays from noon until 11 P.M. Sundays, noon until ten.
Closed Mondays.
When you call or stop by, please mention that you read about PAISAN's in the "Dining Out" column of TABLE HOPPING magazine.