DINING OUT:
KABUKI

12 West Genesee Street
Skaneateles, New York 13152
(315) 685-7234

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by Sue Brode

Are there Thai items on the menu at KABUKI? Yes.
Is KABUKI a Thai restaurant? No.
Will you find Japanese items on the menu at KABUKI? Sure.
Is KABUKI a Japanese restaurant? Not exactly.
How about Sushi? The best in the area.
So . . . uh . . . is KABUKI a Sushi bar?
Ummmmmm . . well, yes and no . . .

You see, KABUKI does feature a Sushi bar, and a crowded one at that - with all seats taken the Saturday evening we visited the Skaneateles eatery. As soon as someone decided it was time to leave, another eager customer slipped right into the slot, so no seat remained unoccupied for very long.

But to feature a Sushi bar doesn’t mean that you are a Sushi bar . .

So here’s the answer to all the above questions: You can find top Thai and Japanese cuisine at KABUKI. Along with Chinese stir fry as well. In truth, KABUKI (located at 12 West Genesee Street, in the heart of the picturesque waterside village) is one more unique creation from Dan Riordan, whose BLUE WATER GRILL sits almost directly across the street. “Eclectic Asian” is the way Dan described this six-year-old venture to us.

So here’s a one of a kind place that touches on many different Asian cuisines but is strictly tied down to none of them. All items, from different areas of the East, are first rate; but the selection of what’s included is whimsical, adding to KABUKI’s uniqueness and originality.
This dining property fits into no easy mold, it is what it is.

And all the customers sure looked and sounded satisfied with what they found: a sophisticated spot with only six tables, and ten seats at the Sushi bar, this is where you’ll want to go when it‚s time to experiment with special taste treats and you are in the mood to slip (to borrow from Mr. Hardy) far from the madding crowd.

Like every one of Dan‚s ventures, KABUKI is a family affair. His sister-in-law Victoria serves as the general manager here, as well as at Skaneateles‚ BLUE WATER (there’s also a sister restaurant in Baldwinsville). Dan‚s daughter Leana (an S.U. student) was among the attractive young women waiting tables that Saturday evening, all appearing quite stunning in basic black.
Basic‚ is a good term to describe pretty much everything about KABUKI: the place is purposefully small and the menus for meals and sushi are kept carefully limited as well. The quality of individual items rather than the quantity of offerings is stressed here.
The Sushi (or Sashimi) menu, for instance.

As to individual servings, included are Ebi (Shrimp), Sake (Salmon), Unagi (BBQ Eel), Hamachi (Yellow Tail), and Maguro (Tuna), ranged in price between $1.50 and $2.50 per piece. Many Sushi aficionados were overheard ordering various combinations of the above; our favorite was the shrimp. Also available on this menu are rolls: Kabuki, Boston, and Spider rolls are each uniquely composed of seafood items including shrimp, salmon, and crab, and each is uniquely delicious. Other possibilities include California, Salmon Avacado, Yellowtail Scallion, Veggie, Tuna Asparagus, Philadelphia, Spicy Tuna, Acapulco, and Rainbow, rolls priced between $5.50 and $12.00.

There are also specials‚ for most evenings. On this particular night, TATAKI ROLL (seared tuna, rolled with dikon, scallion, and ponzu) was also available.

The main menu includes one of the most unique and popular items, EDAMME: whole soybeans, blanched in boiling salted water ($4.00 per large serving). Most diners chose to enjoy this appetizer, which allows you to relax and bite through the salted veggie shell to reach the soft bean centers within. Also popular (and another item my husband and I shared) are the THAI LETTUCE WRAPS. Served with your choice of either marinated seafood or beef, ready to wrap in ultra-fresh bib lettuce at $9.00 per serving, this adds a notably pungent possibility to the evening’s adventure in eating.

And, make no mistake about it, that aptly describes what you’ll encounter. KABUKI has been conceived and created as a viable alternative to all the meat and potatoes/pasta restaurants in CNY. This is the place to try and you’ve had your full of all that.

We decided to each try a different appetizer from a menu that includes Miso Soup (dashi and white miso, garnished with tofu and scallion, $3.00), Mixed Field Green Salad (baby lettuce, cucumber, pear tomato, and honey ginger vinaigrette, $5.00), and Chicken Sate (marinated chicken skewers served with spicy peanut sauce, $7.00).

My husband’s propensity to always order mussels of course led to his picking the Thai Steamed Mussels ($10.00), fresh mussels in broth that includes both coconut and curry. Though officially an appetizer, this is a huge bowl serving that could easily substitute for a full meal. The unique Asian flavorings allowed the fresh-as-you-could-hope-for mussels a special seasoning that enhanced but did not bury the essential seafood flavor.

I tried one of the most oft-requested menu items: MAINE CRAB GYOZA, consisting of crab, asparagus, and shiitake mushroom dumplings, finished with shichimi ($8.00). The word succulent‚ immediately comes to mind in describing the manner in which the varied subtle flavors blend together for a pleasing taste quite unlike any other.

A series of “transitions” is also available, including Shrimp Kushiyaki (marinated jumbo shrimp, totsoi, black and white rice pilaf, and spicy lemon dressing, $10.00), Sake Steamed Clams (littlenecks steamed in sake with wasabi butter for dipping, $8.00), Ramen Noodle Bowl (tender poached chicken with Asian vegetables and ramen noodles, $8.00), and Tuna Tataki (seared tuna, shredded daikon, wakami seaweed, organic lettuce, and ponzu sauce, $10.00).
In truth, though, we were so sated by the plentiful appetizers that we sadly had to pass on these items and move directly on to the entrees.

These include Szechuan Tangerine Stir fry, served with snow peas, shiitake mushrooms, pear tomato, bean sprouts and tangerines, served over rice. The basic dish is $10.00, though it can also be ordered with chicken ($12.00) or tenderloin ($15.00). Ever the beef-eater in the family, I opted for the latter, and found it to be a most satisfying item for those who want a great steak but are tired of having it in the old formulaic manner.

My husband decided on what Leana told us was yet another of the most ordered (and best appreciated) items on the menu: The MISO MARINATED SEA BASS, served over baby spinach, with red chutney and den miso broth ($18.00). The bass itself is melt in your mouth luscious, while the trimmings only add to the dish’s satisfyingly distinct taste.

Other possibilities on the regular menu include Kabuki Hot Pot (raw tuna, scallops and shrimp, which you cook in a shimmering vegetable broth that’s accompanied by dipping sauces, $20.00), Asian Crab Cakes (thai seafood cream sauce, sticky rice, topped with mango corn salsa, $16.00), Jumbo Prawns (tossed with noodles, tomato, leeks and chives in a light lemon butter sauce, $17.00), and Sake Steamed Salmon (with black thai rice pilaf, sliced mango, and yuzu citrus salsa, $15.00). On the evening that we visited, there were also special entrees of the night including Grilled Ahi Tuna, Thai Seafood Stew, and Asian Steak Salad.

Finally, there was no way we were going to leave without sharing another of KABUKI‚s most popular items. This is the LOBSTER AND GOAT CHEESE SALAD, tossed with spicy lemon dressing ($12.00). The blending of everyone‚s most desired seafood with the bittersweet uniqueness of goat cheese, the two extremes bridged by the greenery and lemon finishing, proved a most happy choice.

Desserts included an ultra-rich Molten‚ chocolate and a crème brule seasoned with ginger.
KABUKI does a huge take-out business on sushi items, both for individuals and organizations. Call 685 7234 for hours, reservations, or catering info.

Please mention that you read about KABUKI in Table Hopping.