DINING OUT:
ICHIBAN (8/04)

by Sue Brode

ICHIBAN (View Map)
457–0000

Let’s begin with a traditional Brode family story . . .
Twenty years ago, before moving further north, we used to live in Liverpool. While there,
we had several favorite restaurants, some still in existence, others long gone. But a
particular favorite was always ICHIBAN, the Japanese steak house on Old Liverpool
Road. We’d visited, with our kids, several times, and loved the unique taste of steak,
shrimp, and chicken prepared in a specific Japanese style: cooked at your table, on a
plate glass surface, while you (and others seated nearby) watched, enjoying the delicious
smells of the succulent food as it reached readiness, and the charm of the servers, who
performed a virtual choreographed show while everyone watched in delight, particularly
the kids.

This was quite an innovation in its time, back nearly three decades ago, when Central
New Yorkers had not yet grown accustomed to more sophisticated fare in dining out.
Anyway, we (like, as it turns out, many others who gradually began to make up the
ICHIBAN’s loyal clientele) came to think of this as a special occasion restaurant, a place
we would go to when we wanted to celebrate something extra nice. With some people,
that meant birthdays or anniversaries.
With us, it turned out to be something a little different . . .

I was still employed then as a Liverpool grade school teacher (I retired two years ago),
and my husband and I had one son in middle school then, and another in grade school.
Like most other people who either taught as a profession or had kids in school, we
eagerly awaited snow days, which are of course not all that infrequent here in the
Syracuse area. Sometimes, the ‘calling off’ of school would be announced early in
the morning, more or less at the last moment. At other times, though, on those
occasions when the snow would start falling heavily during the preceding evening,
word came much earlier. If the white stuff happened to be coming down hard and
fast enough, and if the TV weathermen announced that in all likelihood, this was going
to continue, there was always the chance that the following day’s schools in CNY would
be called off the evening before.

And, as a teacher, I would be one of the first people to get a call to that effect.
One dark and cold winter night, when this happened to be the case, I got the call at
around 7:30 p.m. My husband and kids could tell, from my expression while on the
phone, what the ‘good news’ was – there would be a snow day the following morning –
and began cheering. As soon as I was off the phone, my husband said, “Let’s celebrate!”
That is, go someplace, though we didn’t want to drive all that far, owing to the dangerous
roads. It had to be someplace near by, yet someplace special, one that we had reserved
in our minds for special occasions.
It had to be . . .
ICHIBAN!

So, driving at about five m.p.h., we carefully covered the couple of miles to ICHIBAN.
When we arrived, the always smiling manager, Chiyeko Ogata (though we didn’t know
her name at the time) met us at the door. We used to always order the “SHOGUN Special,”
a temptingly tasty and affordable combination of all the great house specialties: Miso soup
(bean paste with tofu and kelp), shrimp appetizer, chicken and steak, as well as rice and
Japanese style vegetables, served with tea. And dessert included.

Later, we drove home (just as carefully) full and happy. It was the perfect way to begin
our day off.

So, the next time the snow began to fall, we held our fingers and, if I got the call from the
district office, the kids began chanting: “Ichiban! Ichiban!” And off we went again. This
happened so many times that, whenever we arrived on such an evening, Chiyeko appeared
to be expecting us!

We had the feeling that whenever she looked out the window and saw snow coming down,
she figured it was just a matter of time before we arrived. Which was usually the case.
Anyway, we moved further north and, as usually happens, our dining out habits changed.
We were way too far away from ICHIBAN to feel safe driving there in the middle of a blizzard.
Still, though, whenever it began to snow, our appetite for great food, served up Japanese
style, began to stir in our stomachs, in the ‘learned reaction’ style of Pavlov’s famous pet.
So now we’re in the present tense. And when it came time to write about ICHIBAN for our
Dining Out column, we recalled those stories. Our sons (including a third born after we’d
moved) are all off and on to their own things now. But when my husband and I drove back
down Old Liverpool Road, heading for the ICHIBAN, we half expected snow to start falling,
even though this was the middle of July. No snow did appear, of course. But, when we walked
inside, a wonderful sense of déjà vu occurred. For there was Chiyeko Ogata, waiting to greet
customers. And though we hadn’t been there in about twenty years, she smiled with recognition
of her old customers and hurried forward to greet us and ask how we’d been.
(I’m sure it was only my husband’s imagination, but he insists that he saw Chiyeko glimpse
toward the window, just to check and see if maybe it was actually snowing in July.)

Everything we always loved best remains intact, but now there are all sorts of new things as
well. Most important is the Sushi bar, present for about twenty years now, located adjacent to
the main dining room. This brings in an entirely new clientele, for the public has finally
caught up with the once innovative restaurant, and Sushi has long since become a
sophisticated staple of American dining. We learned from Chiyeko that Sushi bar customers
tend to be ‘regulars,’ while the vast majority if those who partake of the main dining room
are, as was the case three decades ago, people who have arrived to celebrate some special
occasion.

The Sushi menu is arguably the most extensive and impressive in the CNY region. And while
we didn’t partake, it was clear that the customers were enjoying the wide variety of quality
items. These included NIGIRI SUSHI, composed of two pieces per order. These range
from sweet shrimp to flounder, surf clam and squid to salmon roe, striped bass, sea urchin
and octopus, all priced between $3.50 and $6.50. More ‘essential’ SUSHI (assorted fish on
vinegar flavored rice) runs the gamut from “beginner’s” (shrimp, crab stick, egg omelet)
to “advanced” (chef’s choice of five pieces for experienced palates) and even a “Chirashi”
(chef’s ultimate combination), these all ranged between $4.75 and $19.95.

SASHIMI (an assortment of fresh fish) comes in two sizes, priced at $6.95 and $16.95.
And there’s MAKI MONO (seaweed wrapped roll) that runs the gamut from such simpler
items as cucumber roll and California Roll (crab stick, avocado and cucumber with sesame
or tobiko) to such enticing items as Rock $ Roll (eel, avocado under a dripping of sweet
eel sauce with sesame) and “Stop, Drop, and Roll” (Tabasco, fish roe and mayonnaise,
served as two pieces Nigiri). These gourmet Sushi items (and far too many others to list
here) run between $3.50 and $8.00.

We had arrived, though, for dinner in the main room. We took our places with strangers
who swiftly became friends, the congeniality always a great part of the ICHIBAN’s
ongoing appeal. We noticed at once that the selection of appetizers has greatly increased
since we last visited. They range in price from $3.25 (Eda Mame, or boiled soybean pods,
lightly salted) to $7.95 (soft shell crab, deep fried with tempura batter, and served with
a side of sauce). My husband opted for the crab, which I also tasted. Sweet and succulent,
it could not have been better. (We actually talked about stopping by some evening and
just ordering several portions of this item!)

We also tried and loved two different types of dumplings, the Shumai (steamed crab)
and Gyoza (fried pork). Each was delicious, and it’s worth noting that the seasoning is just
strong enough so that aficionados of Japanese cuisine will not be disappointed, yet mild
enough that first time visitors will need not be concerned that their palates are not ready
for such an experiment. We also tried the Tempura (deep friend shrimp and vegetables
in crispy batter), and found it to be tasty and unique.

For soup, we opted for the Miso ($1.75), though there’s also a Hibachi soup (same price)
composed of clear chicken and vegetable broth with noodles. Various salads are available,
including seaweed with sesame ($3.95) and lettuce with crab and shrimp ($6.95). We
ordered the simplest, our old favorite: house salad with ginger dressing. Also available
are SUNO MONO items, Japanese style salad with flavored vinegar dressing for the
Asian food cogniscenti.

The main courses, or Hibachi Dinners, all include soup, salad, shrimp flambé appetizer,
Japanese style vegetables, and rice. They range from $13.95 to $19.95, with additional
‘market price’ items that include lobster. Various combinations include boneless chicken,
scallops, sirloin strip, beef Teriyaki, filet mignon, and various combinations of the above.
I enjoyed a steak and lobster combo, while my husband went in for the lobster. You
could never ask for a more satisfying dish, and again, the Japanese preparation was just
mild enough to make this approach to lobster quite unique, while never so extreme that
it in any way buried the beloved taste of lobster.

We learned from Chiyeko that the only lobster used on the premises is Australian cold
water lobster. She could easily cut her cost of preparation by using warm water (she must
pay nearly double for the best) but those who know the difference would sense it
immediately. The cold water lobster is always more sweet and far firmer, and Chiyeko
wants those customers who know the difference between good and great lobster to always
know that they’re getting top of the line here.

Chiyeko’s brother is in charge of the kitchen, and all items are available for take out. They
have been serving top Japanese food since moving here from Ithaca in the early seventies.
At that time, Central New Yorkers were leery of anything that seemed so exotic, though
they have become far more adventurous over the years, and far more likely to head for
such a unique place.

Loyalty can be proven by the fact that the first customer who ever came in some thirty
years ago still regularly returns. ICHIBAN can also handle special parties in a private
room for up to twenty people.

Located at 302 Old Liverpool Road, ICHIBAN can be reached by phone at 457 – 0000.
When calling for further information or reservations, please mention that you read about
ICHIBAN in the “Dining Out” column of TABLE HOPPING!