DINING OUT:
THE GLEN LOCH (3/04)

4626 North Street
Jamesville, NY
(315) 469 - 6969

Some of the restaurants we write about are new and need and introduction. The GLEN LOCH is a standard that merits a re-introduction. Regarded for some thirty years as one of Central New York’s most beloved fine-dining establishments, it has survived fads and changes that saw other properties come and go. With its upscale-rustic decor, delightful meals at reasonable prices, and such special features as a renown Sunday brunch, a can’t-beat-it Friday seafood buffet, and a top-flight dinner-theatre company, the GLEN LOCH rates as something of a local institution.

In a recent phone-interview, we spoke with Tim Barr, who has been running things at the GLEN LOCH for so long that he was a bit taken aback when we asked what his official title happens to be. “You know,” he said after a pause, “I guess it may be president. I’m not sure, really.” Tim has been with the restaurant as general manager, creative director of events, and hands-on producer of daily and weekly events that he apparently never bothered to assign himself any sort of official title. Make no mistake about it, though, the GLEN LOCH is his personal project, within the larger concept of the Barr family’s restaurant operation in Central New York.

Tim also works as a “permanent part-time” professor at Syracuse University, where he teaches courses in Nutrition at the HS-HP college. The program offers various programs in Hospitality and Management for restaurants and hotel properties, and Tim has become a key instructor owing to the years of personal experience that he can share with the students. He notes that the GLEN LOCH will shortly (on April 15) mark its 33rd year of operation. Before that, the building was a working feed and grain mill. Then, in 1969, that operation was closed down and the building was converted into a restaurant by a family that had a vision. But when their operation failed financially, Tim came aboard in 1972. Other members of his family already ran the BRAE LOCH in Cazenovia, and the KIN LOCH would successfully operate under the guidance of Tim’s uncle Pete until his decision to retire. At that time, the family had to decide whether they would take turns at the KIN LOCH, then realized that the success of each property depended on the personal approach that the various family members were able to offer.

For that reason, the otherwise successful KIN LOCH was closed down, with the BRAE LOCH and GLEN LOCH taking precedence. Tim reckons that along with the BRAE LOCH and DeWitt’s ever-popular SCOTCH AND SIRLOIN, the GLEN LOCH may be the most long-running fine dining establishment in the Central New York area.

The regular menu includes all the expected items and some highly innovative ones as well. For instance, as to the soups, in addition to the Soup du Jour (($3.50) and Baked French Onion Soup ($4.25) there is also a Lobster Bisque with Cream Sherry ((5.95). The appetizer list includes the expected Shrimp Cocktail ($7.95) and Clams Casino ($6.95), but also Baked Scottish Cheddar ($6.95), wrapped in a homemade puff pastry and finished with a raspberry brandy sauce, and Sauteed Sherried Button Mushrooms ($2.95). For those who rate as gourmands as well as gourmets, there’s the Glen Loch Sampler ($8.50), featuring petite baked cheddar, small lobster bisque or baked french onion, clams casino, and mushroom caps.

The Garden salads likewise, also has some traditional items along with others that are unique in our area. You can opt for the Grilled Chicken Caesar Salad ($12.95), though there’s also a London Broil Salad ($17.95). And while the entrees include Veal Marsala ($18.95) and Veal Oscar ($20.95), some of the happy surprises are Fresh Penne ala Vodka (15.95), served with artichoke hearts, garlic, fresh tomatoes, and Asiago cheese in a homemade marinara sauce.

For the traditionalists, there’s Roasted Prime Rib of Beef (served Thursday through Sunday), served with homemade horseradish on the side. The quality of the meat is incredible—tasty and tempting. This may be the most-often ordered menu-item on weekends for the past three decades. King cut is $19.95, queen cut $18.95). Beef eaters can also choose from the Black Angus New York Cut Strip Steak ($19.95), a hand cut 12 ounce strip that’s been aged in the restaurant’s coolers, served either grilled or blackened. A petite 8 ounce filet mignon ($22.95), a hand-cut 18 ounce Porterhouse ($21.95), and Surf and Turf—12 ounce NY Strip and 9 ounce lobster tail, or a Queen cut of Prime Rib with 9 ounce lobster tail—-is available for $41.95.

Also popular are the Bellwether Rack of Lamb ($21.95), Shrimp Scampi ($18.95), Norwegian Salmon Piccata ($18.95), Long Island Duckling ($18.95), and chicken served either Parmesan ($16.95) or Francais ($17.95) style. Ultimately, the great treat for fans of seafood is the Lobster Elizabeth ($21.95), fresh sauteed lobster and vegetables served in a white wine sauce over linguine.

All sauces are personally designed by Tim’s executive chef, Jeffrey Wilson. All dinners are served with salad, fresh vegetable, the appropriate starch item (pasta or potato), and homemade rolls.

Several recent additions are significant in the GLEN LOCH’s ongoing pattern of creative innovation. A pub menu has been added in the afternoons that includes wings ($6.95 per dozen), beer batter onion rings with horseradish sauce ($3.95), and the Black Angus Burger ($7.95), served with bacon and American cheese. Also a part of the pub offerings are two unique sandwiches, the GLEN LOCH house sandwich ($7.95), which consists of hard salami, roasted red peppers, and provolone cheese, with a side of Italian dressing for dipping, and the grilled Portabello sandwich ($6.95) with roasted red peppers, lettuce, and Balsamic Vinegar. The all-you-can-eat crab leg buffet is now available not only on Friday night but also Wednesday and Thursday as well, from 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday brunch is from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

A new feature is the Fiddler’s Green, available for clam bakes, weddings, and private parties. This outdoor attraction has already proven so popular that it is already sold out on weekends for most of the spring and summer season, though a few open dates do remain.

Finally, the GLEN LOCH plays host to what may be the longest running dinner-theatre operation in CNY. Currently, the company is Bob Brown’s Opening Night Productions. Currently, LEND ME A TENOR (see William D. West’s review elsewhere in this issue) by Ken Ludwig offers the drawing room comedy antics of naughty love relationships amid endlessly opening and closing doors. Next up is the final show of the season, MY WAY, a musical tribute to Frank Sinatra. Bob Brown, John D. Smitherman, Cathleen O’Brien, and Jessica Edwards will appear, performing the wide variety of popular songs that Ol’ Blue Eyes popularized over half a century. “Fly Me to the Moon” will be among the 50 + numbers to be performed. For reservations and ticket information, call (315) 476 - 6915.

The GLEN LOCH is located at 4626 North St. in Jamesville. For further information or reservations, call 469 - 6969; please mention that you read about the GLEN LOCH in the “Dining Out” column of TABLE HOPPING.