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DINING OUT:
FRANKIE'S PICCOLO BISTRO
656 North Salina Street
Syracuse, NY
(315) 479-8797
Fax (315) 479-8798See Map
by Sue BrodeWith the number of unique restaurants ever increasing in the CNY area, a new entry in the competition has got to carve out its own niche right away, so that the public will understand what it’s all about and precisely the sort of cuisine that is served here. That’s the case with FRANKIE’S PICCOLO BISTRO, one of the numerous possibilities you’ll find along the North Salina Street area that is in the process of officially defining itself as Syracuse’s own ‘Little Italy.’ Though the concept for the entire area has yet to jell, some specific spots are already booming, as we found out on a recent Saturday night. When we arrived, the admittedly small (on purpose) and intimate restaurant had a considerable upscale bar crowd and plenty of dinner customers, willingly waiting for a table to clear, even if that took some time, rather than head off to another place. That’s because FRANKIE’S has been modeled on a trendy Manhattan style bistro, with plenty of Italian specialties, all served up with a touch of sophistication.
That’s true of the ambience of this amiable place as well, which has been building a reputation for quality - and a steady and growing clientele - since opening two years ago this October.
Sinatra, or some other easygoing jazz, is playing as you enter the doors at 656 North Salina, setting the proper scene. If owner Bob Matrone happens to be in that night (most often, he is), he’ll likely greet you personally, even though he has about a thousand and one things on his mind at all times. One, of course, is FRANKIE’S itself, which he’s extremely proud of, since the restaurant was his idea. And now operates as an expression of his family - one son in the kitchen, another behind the bar.
Also, Bob is very involved in the recent SYRACUSE ‘IT’ GIRL pageant, also one of Bob’s OWN original concepts. The idea of a young woman, beautiful in personality as well as looks, to act as spokesperson for the city and help to give Syracuse a greater sense of identity, was a pet project that Bob poured his time into during the past year. He had plenty of help on that one from other Syracuse boosters, and the pageant also had a more idealistic cause: helping to raise money for the Carol M. Baldwin Breast Cancer Research Fund. With everything from an open admissions policy for young women who wanted to enter (none of the 23 ladies who applied were turned down), running through a high style concluding event at the Atrium, and including a handsome printed program, the pageant marked one more way in which local businessmen like Bob are giving their all to create a sense of CNY pride.
In addition to FRANKIE’S, Bob also oversees the eatery and deli in the Atrium building downtown. He’s been in business all his adult life, though the idea of becoming a restaurateur was relatively recent. For many years, Bob sold automobiles for Bill Rapp’s Superstore. “My son drew me in” to this venue, Bob recalled while we relaxed at the handsome bar while waiting for a table, getting a kick out of the good looking people who were hangin’ out here. In fact, once the evening crowd finally began to disperse, the late nighters, who had been to the movies, concerts, or other events, began to drift in for dinner, dessert, or both. One particularly stylish foursome had driven upstate from their home in the East Village in downtown New York. Why, of all the places in town, were they here? They’d heard from some friends that FRANKIE’S was the place to go in CNY if you were in the mood for upscale bistro-style casual-cool dining. They were not disappointed.
But we were talking about Bob! His son, also named Bob but generally known around the BISTRO as ‘Roberto’ so that both don’t answer every time some one calls out the name ‘Bob,’ is the chef. And a very fine one at that - more on this shortly! Meanwhile, Bob worked at a number of restaurants while going to college. Though Roberto picked up a human resources degree, and had thought about going into some field in which such a sheepskin would prove beneficial, he got hooked on the kind of work he was doing in order to help pay the bills. Roberto also learned much from the top chefs he got to observe, and picked up a sense of what the food and beverage industry are all about in the most practical sense. After graduating, he drifted in that direction, and gradually brought his father - as well as other family members - along on that journey as well.
They started out at the Pavilion over on James Street, but when the building’s new owners wanted a public rather than private place, Bob and Roberto started considering other options. One was the Atrium, and the other FRANKIE’S PICCOLO BISTRO, allowing them to approach two notably different types of food preparation to satisfy a pair of distinct needs in the area.
“We wanted this one to be warm, intimate,” Bob recalled of their approach, “with the European Bistro flavor” both in the food and atmosphere. In fact, they researched the concept before beginning an overhaul on the building that would in time become FRANKIE’S. This included work-pleasure trips to various other cities, where European/Manhattan type bistros were already in operation. The idea was not to imitate any one particular place, but get a sense of the recurring things that made any one, and in fact all, of them successful. What did the public want from such a place? Both on the menu, in terms of everything from barstools to lighting effects, and as mentioned earlier the music that would be playing? They then drew on their notes and memories in order to then add their own ideas and create a place that both expressed the Matrone men themselves yet also delivered something that was missing from the Syracuse restaurant scene.A burgundy color scheme, complimented with hanging lamps, gives a sense of casual luxury, while the widescreen TV over the bar makes clear that FRANKIE’S is also state of the art. Bob is clearly not happy that the cleaning up of the area around FRANKIE’S is taking longer than he had believed it would. “A work in progress” is what he calls the overhaul. He’s a DESTINY supporter who believes that when/if that ever happens, it will open a route stretching from the Carousel Mall to downtown Syracuse, with North Salina’s emergent Little Italy the logical way for people to go. He’s there, ready, now. Between 37 and 43 people can dine here at any one time, with some of them going casual at the bar. Upstairs, there’s a banquet facility that’s now being remodeled for future use.During the summer months, people can eat on the outside pavilion as well.
My husband and I tried a number of items, all fine, and one in particularly stands out: The Shrimp Sambucca. You’ll find this on the appetizers menu ($9.95), and for shrimp lovers, it’s an absolute knock out, with a totally unique taste from pretty much any other shrimp dish in town. They are sauteed and deglazed with Sambucca liquor and a touch of fresh basil, kalamata olives, roasted red peppers, onions, and chopped tomatoes. The taste is out of this world. Again, if you’re into upscale dining, you’ve got to try this one!
Plenty of other appetizers are on the menu as well. Like sauteed mussels? Try the Cozzi di Mare, finished in Chef Roberto’s own white wine and lemon butter sauce ($9.95). There’s a more traditional shrimp cocktail ($8.95) for those who prefer something more conventional, and Bruschetta Pomodoro Basilico: Fresh Roma tomatoes, chopped red onions, basil, garlic dressed with olive oil and served over crostini ($6.95). There are Fried Meatballs ($11.95) and a unique variation on Fried Calamari, as Chef Roberto allows the octopus to more or less marinate in a milk sauce, rendering them less chewy (but no less tasty) after they are fried. It’s of course those little touches that make or break a restaurant; they make FRANKIE’S.
Things like this have allowed the Bistro to build a word of mouth reputation, as people like what they try and come back, and also tell their friends about it. “The people who run Chesterfield’s in Utica come here,” Bob told us. FRANKIE’S is the kind of place where other people in the restaurant business go when they want to try something entirely different from their own cooking, however high their quality. They get a sense of what FRANKIE’S is all about from the logo - one of those urbane hats that Sinatra used to wear in the late-1950s and early-1960s - and the ‘legend’ that accompanies this icon: “cocktails - dreams - late night cuisine.” At about the same time on a Friday or Saturday that other quality restaurants are beginning to shut down, FRANKIE’S is just getting going. You may come here for the entire evening or swing by after the show; it’s that kind of place, casual-classy, which goes for the clientele that’s attracted to FRANKIE’S as well.
Another thing you might want to try, particularly if you are into ‘healthy eating’: An appetizer/side dish featuring the Chef’s cooked greens. This is the kind of tasty dish that a practicing vegetarian, in the mood for a light meal at the bar, might order. Also highly recommended (when it is featured as the soup of the day) is the Pasta Fazoul: pasta and beans mixed Italian style, rich and hearty. Le Zuppe del Giorno is always $2.95 a cup, $3.95 a bowl.
Salads include the house, featuring mixed greens tossed with tomato, onion, cucumbers, peppers and black olives ($3.95). A number of people had ordered this and it looked very good, though we opted for the Antipasto: a selection of Italian meats, cheeses, and vegetables served over mixed greens: three sizes at $6.95, $8.95, and $11.95. The meats and cheeses were of the highest quality; the greens extremely fresh.
The dinner entrees divide into two categories, and all items in each are served with a dinner salad and incredibly delicious bread. First there’s LA PASTA, with varied items ranging in price from $13.95 to $18.95. These include such tempting possibilities as Linguine Con Vongole (whole Long Island little neck clams, with marinara, white wine, or lemon and butter sauce), Chicken Carbonara (with proscuito, mushrooms, and olives in Chef Robert’s unique cream sauce), and Shrimp Alla Bionda (chicken and shrimp together, with asparagus, onions, and garlic, in the cream sauce over penne pasta.) The “specialties of the Chef” section of the menu features items ranging in price from $11.95 to $17.95. These include Eggplant Parmigiana, Chicken Francaise, and three different approaches to veal. My husband opted for the Veal Marsala, served with Portabello Mushrooms, in the Marsala sauce. The sauce was pungent and spicy-without-being-too-spicy, the veal so tender that you can cut it with a fork, indicative of the highest quality meat. I tried one of the daily specials, a scallop and shrimp over pasta combination, that couldn’t be beat. There’s almost always a unique steak special of the night, but be aware that the reputation is out as to how great each one is. Meaning on a busy night, get your order in for this early or they’ll be all gone. It’s not that Bob and Roberto don’t order enough; it’s that the steaks are so popular that the ultra-fresh items, coming in daily, are ordered and served as fast as they come in.
Which, of course, is a very high compliment indeed.
All sorts of beers and wine are served, and there’s always a splendid selection of Italian desserts. Also, for those with a lighter appetite or a tighter budget, note that Roberto makes a series of gourmet pizzas, each priced at $9.95. These are garnished with your choice of either mozzarella, grilled pepperoni, chicken, spinach, fresh Roma tomatoes, or vegetables.
And DON’T forget to try that SAMBUCCA SHRIMP! REALLY!
Lunches are served Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner, Tuesday through Thursday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. You can phone for reservations at 479-8797, or FAX the restaurant at 315-479-8798 for further info. When calling or writing - or for that matter just stopping by - please mention that you read about FRANKIE’S PICCOLO BISTRO in the “Dining Out” column of TABLE HOPPING magazine.