DINING OUT:
CUCINA DI AMORE

7608 Oswego Rd. (Route 57)
Liverpool, NY
(315) 622 - 9402

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by Sue Brode

Hear about an Italian restaurant that’s making waves in CNY, and likely it will be one of two things: either a local family owned spot that makes its identity as part of a long-standing neighborhood, or a gourmet place featuring cuisine dining and handsome presentations. Note then that Cucina di Amore in the Bayberry Plaza, Liverpool, offers a bit of both.

Karen and Larry Pavese, she the hostess and general manager and he the chef, offer up everything from chicken riggies to filet mignon, in a casual but sharply defined ambience that includes a friendly neighborhood bar.

Show up with your entire family for some economic dining and you'll enjoy items such as Baked Ziti Alforno, topped with ground veal, pork, and beef, and finished with ricotta cheese before being baked in the house red sauce, for a wallet pleasing $9.99 a serving. Arrive, on the other hand, in the mood for a true delicacy, and you may well choose the Filet Antonio, an 8 oz. prime filet, grilled and served (most attractively, we might add) with choice of shrimp or scallops Italiano on the side. A dozen chicken dishes, priced between $10.99 and $13.99, are just right for anyone on a tight budget. In the mood, on the other hand, for something more extravagant? There's the stuffed lobster tails, two four-ounce broiled tails with butter, garlic, and white wine, stuffed with the special recipe seafood stuffing and topped with mornay sauce ($19.99.)

Perhaps you find your mood and money situation to be somewhere in the middle? Then opt for the Ribeye Melanaise, the house speciality here, grilled and then finished with Chef Lawrence's special oil and garlic glaze. Depending on the size you order, cuts are $11.99 (8 oz.), $14.99 (12 oz.), or $17.99 (16 oz.)

Both Karla and Larry have been around the restaurant business most of their lives. In fact, they first met while both were employed at a Denny's in Cincinatti, some fifteen yeas ago now. Both shared higher aspirations than that, and over the years they traveled - and worked in restaurants - in many varied locations. In particular, Lawrence earned a top spot as the Head Chef at Gance's in Binghamton. It was there that he learned about Old School Italian, and picked up many of the recipes that are now served in their co-owned Liverpool location. As Larry hailed from the Central New York area, he longed to return and be closer to his family. The current property, which Larry and Karla will have been successfully running and managing for three years come this March, was perfect for their current plans.
Not that either is sitting still, mind you. In addition to the restaurant and their family obligations with children, Karla is studying pre-med and plans to in time be a doctor. Meanwhile, she's involved with many of CUCINA DI AMORE's sidelights, which include everything from Comedy Night Wednesdays to Mystery Dinner Theatre productions The night that we recently visited, Karla had to slip away from her duties as hostess to attend a rehearsal for their upcoming show. Very possibly, she headed home to study for a while and kiss the kids goodnight in-between!

They also run a newsletter which goes out to all regular diners, and the number of subscribers continues to grow as word gets around about the fabulous food and fun atmosphere. Other special events include the annual Cucina Golf Outing, and they now have a Catering Service. Another great favorite is the Monday ALL YOU CAN EAT CRABLEGS special. And on Tuesday, kids eat free with an adult meal purchase.

"Liverpool's Neighborhood Italian Place," the dinner menu announces. That's backed up by some of the Mediterranean appetizers. We tried several, and found the Sicilian Style Clams Casino ($7.99 per half dozen) to be succulent. Bruschetta ($7.99) features fresh tomato, basil, Bermuda onion, and roasted garlic, all tossed with extra virgin olive oil and served over toast points. Our favorite was the Hot Antipasto ($12.99), featuring a combo of shrimp, scallops, and clams, sauteed in a sherry marinara sauce, then finished with eggplant and melted provolone cheese. A unique taste!

The soups, like everything else in CUCINA DI AMORE, are homemade and delicious. I enjoyed the Pasta Fagioli ($2.95 per cup), a traditional beams and pasta combination in a rich red sauce. My husband opted for the Beans and Greens ($4.95 per bowl), a hearty/healthy soup that lives up to its name.

Veal of course is a staple here. We enjoyed the Vitello Marsala, medallions of veal, sautted in CUCINA's house Marsala wine sauce and served with white button mushrooms ($13.99). Other veal items run in a price range between $12.99 and $14.99. All the steaks are hand cut, fresh in the house. Beef tips are available Marsala or Alfredo style ($16.99 each), and the Prime Rib can be served petit ($12.99), queen cut ($15.99), or king size $18.99). Fish includes sole and haddock, and either item served 'stuffed' is $12.99. Various other shrimp, scallop, and clam dishes are served up broiled or sauteed. A highly economical entry is the Haddock Italiano, broiled with white wine, butter, and garlic, and then topped with bread crumbs ($10.99).

All you can eat pasta dishes include spaghetti, penne, rigatoni, linguini, cappellini, and fettuccini, each priced at $8.99. Meatballs or sausage can be ordered on the side for $1.75 for either. The management wants diners to know that all dishes are made from scratch and prepared to order, and they ask for a diner's patience so that everything will come out just right.

Expect to hear Italian favorites like Frank Sinatra softly playing on the music system. My husband enjoyed a cappucino along with the home-made Italian style desserts after we had thoroughly enjoyed our main meals.

CUCINA DI AMORE is located at 7608 Oswego Rd. (Route 57) in the Bayberry Plaza. Having a party? Ask for the banquet menu or visit the CUCINA's website at Cucinadiamore.com for all of their menus and a list of upcoming special events.

For reservations or further info, call 622 - 9402. Please mention that you read about CUCINA DI AMORE in the "Dining Out" column of TABLE HOPPING!

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