DINING OUT:
CAP'T JOHN'S (6/03)

North Beach Boulevard, Rt. 13, on Oneida Lake
(315)762-9949

Summer is almost upon us, which means Sylvan Beach will once again be serving as a nearby vacation getaway for Syracusans and other Central New Yorkers who want to slip away for a day or a weekend but either aren’t in the mood or aren’t able to go as far as, say, Lake George or Lake Placid to the East or Darian Lake to the the West. A happy and closer compromise, Sylvan Beach offers natural sand beaches for swimming and sunbathing, over 1,000 campsites, motels, and cottages, marinas with both Lake and Erie Canal Access, Pike and Perch fishing, boats and water sports, and an amusement park with picnic areas.

It also features numerous restaurants, including the now legendary CAPTAIN JOHN’S.
This year, CAPTAIN JOHN’S is celebrating its 30th anniversary. This family-operated restaurant is named after John DePerno, who remains on-property in his captain’s outfit, ready to greet guests with a friendly smile. His daughter, Elaine DePerno-Brown, is the manager, and on most evenings, the two meet you at the entrance. John’s three other daughters help out, as do his wife and grandchildren. Scott Zahas is the chef who comes up with the incredibly satisfying dishes, but part of the charm and appeal of going to CAPTAIN JOHN’S is the atmosphere. For this was a theme restaurant before the term even existed.
The first thing that you hear upon entering is a hearty “Welcome aboard!” A scenario is set in place that has you settling aboard a cruise ship, but not some modern vessel. Rather, it’s a great old wooden ship in the pirate tradition; there’s even a statue of an old-time buccaneer standing right outside the main entrance. The music that’s playing as you are ushered to your spot in the galley recalls the Caribbean, with moods of the old era of iron men in wooden ships abundant all around you. There are palm trees everywhere, and (simulated) parrots stare down at you.

In fact, not one inch of space is wasted, as every spot of this large yet intimate ‘dining experience’ adds to and enhances the basic concept: There are paintings of the old days and suggestions of the kind of inn that Jim Hawkins worked in being being swept away by Long John Silver in TREASURE ISLAND. And fish-nets are effectively draped all along the ceiling to remind you that fresh seafood is a specialty of the house.

Our reaction, on visiting for the first time, was that this would be a perfect restaurant for the Disney people to offer adjacent to their PIRATES OF THE CARIBBEAN ride in the California and Florida theme parks. That way, the total ‘experience’ could be carried over from the ride to the restaurant. Here, the restaurant provides its own gastronomical ‘ride,’ by giving their visitors the impression that they are actually dining on board a ship—and that the moment they enter, the cruise has departed from shore. A good time ‘cruise’ is the order of the day; if you order the house drink, called a ‘Shipwreck for Two,’ the bartender will immediately blow his foghorn.

All this leads to a great time for all. Still, the test of the pudding comes, as they like to say, in the tasting. Similarly, the test of any restaurant ultimately occurs in your assessment of the quality of the food, and CAPTAIN JOHN’S measures up. This is no mere case of grandstanding with a big show; when the food comes, it is plentiful and perfectly prepared, a great pay-off after enjoying the restaurant’s entertaining atmosphere.

The enormous menu features nearly 25 appetizers, and we only wished we could have tried them all. The appetizers run in a price range between $3.95 and $9.95. Included in the list are such expected items as Baked French Onion Soup, Loaded Potato Skins, and Freshly Battered Onion Rings. Also expected for a restaurant known for its seafood items are Fried Calamari, Popcorn Shrimp, Shrimp Cocktail, and Little Neck Clams, Steamed or Raw. But for the adventurous, there are some truly unique offerings as well. You can try Mussels Possillippo (in the ‘house’ marina sauce), and Escargot on Mushroom Caps, as well as something we hadn’t encountered before, Popcorn Lobster—freshly battered lobster morsels, deep fried to a golden hue, then served with special horseradish sauce for dipping. Other intriguing appetizer specials are two types of clam chowder (Manhattan or New England) and Fresh Fried Zucchini Stix.
My husband and I decided to try the Baked Clams Casino (the Chef’s speciality) and the Baked Stuffed Mushrooms. Both proved to be big hits. The former follows the traditional baked clam formula but with several unique spices to pep up the taste and make the eating experience unique. The latter features a crabmeat stuffing, generously proportioned in huge caps, for a real taste treat.

Beef eaters can choose between the prime rib, single cut (1 1/2 lbs.) at $25.95 or double cut (over 2 1/2 lbs.) at $29.95, or a variety of steaks priced between $16.95 and $25.95. The steaks include New York Petite Strip Sirloin, the larger 14 oz. Strip, Filet Mignon, Beef Brochette served kabob style, or the largest (and most expensive), the Cattleman’s Steak Special, a 20 oz. Black Angus Char-Broiled Porterhouse. Another unique feature of CAPTAIN JOHN’S is the ability of customers (ship-mates, that is) to create their own surf ‘n’ turf combos. The diner can pick the rib or steak of his/her choice, then add on such items as Shrimp (Tempura, Fried, Scampi, or Baked Stuffed), Frogs Legs, Scallops, Snow Crab Legs, or a variety of lobster tails (and, for the large eater, a whole lobster) ranging in prices from $6.95 to $30.95, depending on the choice. The most incredible of the surf ‘n’ turf items is the “Captain’s Cargo for Two,” featuring one pound Australian lobster tail and the largest cut of roast beef for each diner at $68.95.

There are numerous poultry and BBQ rib items, ranging in price from $12.95 to $18.95. These include chicken served grilled, tempura, francaise, florentine, parmigiana, or diavolo (this item is sauteed with mushrooms, onions, and sweet and hot cherry peppers), as well as a whole rack of ribs or a chicken n’ rib combo.

We’d heard great things about the seafood items and so both of us wanted to order from this selection. The ocean fresh seafood items range in price from $10.95 to $19.95 (excluding the lobster and crab items, which receive their own special place on the menu.) They include traditional haddock (broiled, stuffed, and fried), as well as flounder, sole, and salmon. Sea scallops can be ordered broiled, fried, or au gratin. More adventurous diners can try the Calamari or the Frog Legs. Various platters include, upon pricing, everything from haddock, shrimp and scallops to frog legs in originally conceived combos.
I tried the Stuffed Haddock, which is menu-priced at $15.95. It is broiled in lemon, butter, and wine, with a generous helping of stuffing that, happily, consists more of crabmeat than bread crumbs. The fish was fresh and flakey, the liquid dressings combined to enhance rather than drown the flavor. The item (like all dinners at CAPTAIN JOHN’S) is served with choice of chef salad, cottage cheese, or coleslaw, plus the restaurant’s signature Garlic Bread and choice of baked potato, french fries, rice pilaf, or pasta.
As mentioned earlier, there is an extensive lobster and crab menu, ranging in price from $21.95 (for a pound of snow crab legs) to $39.95 (one full pound Australian lobster tail). The whole Maine Lobster, which weighs in at 1 1/2 lbs, fresh from the tank, is $32.95. Other items included here are the lobster ‘n’ crab combo and the lobster and seafood served au gratin style, in creamy cheese sauce.

Various pasta dishes, ranging in price from $12.95 to $19.95, include mussels or clams served over linguini, shrimp or seafood Marinara, and chicken served primavera (with fresh vegetables) or penne (with bell peppers, onions, and mushrooms, delicately tossed with pasta in light tomato sauce and then garnished with freshly grated cheese. Vegetable primavera is also featured if there should be a vegetarian in your party.

My husband opted for another of the chef’s speciality/signature dishes: Lobster n’ Seafood served Fra Diavolo style, and priced at $28.95. He insists that the dish was as delicious as it was bountiful, featuring fresh clams, shrimp, scallops, and lobster tails, simmered in the chef’s special (hot and spicy) marinara sauce, then served on a bed of linguini. This dish includes shellfish exclusively, and is large almost beyond belief. Not only did we take home more than half the serving (after my husband had consumed and enjoyed an incredible amount), but the remainders not only served as lunch the next day for him, but also for our teenage son, who is a hefty eater. Then, there was still some left!
Here’s another smart move we hadn’t seen before: Rather than feature the traditional kiddie menu, CAPTAIN JOHN’S has two distinct kiddie menus: the Captain Kidd choices (for age eight and under) at $6.96 per plate, the Young Mates Meals (eight to twelve) between $7.95 and $9.95, and then the Pirates Delight, featuring non-alcoholic kiddie cocktails. This is so that the kids won’t feel left out if their parents order some of the large and tasty Caribbean style tropical drinks, which are available in alcoholic or non-alcoholic servings. We tried a Strawberry Daquiri and Pina Colada respectively, and when consumed in the atmosphere of a pirate enclave, and with the island music playing, really did give us the impression that we’d done something more than merely go out for dinner—this is a mini-vacation to the islands at a magic spot in time.

The desserts are all homemade, and as tasty and immense as the main courses. There are various flavored Cappuccinos, and such special features as an early bird menu, specialty sandwiches, a ‘lighter appetite’ menu, and for the fan of Italian food, a series of five Italian feasts ranging in price from $10.95 to $15.95. CAPTAIN JOHN’S is located on North Beach Boulevard, Rt. 13, on ONeida Lake. From Syracuse, take the Thruway (1-90) and then take exit 34. Opening hours are daily beginning at 3 p.m. and Sunday at noon; closed on Tuesdays. For more information, call 762-9949; please mention that you read about CAPTAIN JOHN’S in the “Dining Out” column of TABLE HOPPING.