DINING OUT:
AMBROSIA (2/05)

by Heather Kipping

Ambrosia (View Map)
201 Walton Street
Armory Square, Downtown Syracuse
(315) 426-8800

Ambrosia is the food and drink of mythological gods that is especially delicious in flavor or fragrance. From the start, I understood the befitting name for this hip restaurant nestled in Syracuse's Armory Square at 201 Walton Street. The hallmark of this exquisite restaurant is the management's ability to pay attention to even the smallest detail of the diner's experience, making an evening here an exceptional one. This establishment also hosts a separate Restaurant, Nightspot and Sushi Bar all within its casual, but sophisticated downtown atmosphere.

John Sansone, the restaurant manager, is new to Ambrosia since September 2004. Prior to returning to Syracuse, he worked eighteen years in several upscale Philadelphia restaurants. Accepting his position at Ambrosia, he brought several innovative ideas, developing creative changes to the dinner menu, sushi bar and the restaurant's community involvement. Under his new management, John touts Syracuse as being a "meat and potatoes crowd"; hence, the new meat additions, including famous and delectable Hereford Steaks. If you've never had one of these aged and precisely cut steaks, you are missing a real treat. No need for a steak knife, the butter knife will do. The Executive Chef, Steve Samuels has modified the restaurant's menu to "fit" the Syracuse people and he offers interesting beef, chicken, lamb, duck, fish and pasta entrees.

When I asked John what he most wanted our readers to know about Ambrosia he replied that "Ambrosia has a new look and new staff with great chefs." They want to cater to a wide variety of people and have them all feel comfortable during their dining experience with the "immortal gods." John enthusiastically exclaims, "Come as you are and enjoy yourself!" His attitude toward the dining clientele appears to be exactly what he was looking for.

The January evening we dined at Ambrosia, we noticed families with children, couples of all ages, and college aged groups of four to six. Diners were dressed casually in jeans and in dressier evening wear. It all jelled just fine as the staff effortlessly guided diners through a pampering evening of fine food and drink, all within an intentionally relaxing atmosphere.

Upon arrival, we proceeded to the bar and were welcomed with two glasses of Shiraz wine to warm us on a frigid winter's eve. The establishment is decorated primarily in black and white, with sleek lines and uncomplicated patterns. Spanning the entire wall over the bar, a black and white classic western movie was being played. It was a delightful and surprising feature in the main dining room. Without sound, one could drift away to the Wild Wild West, or choose to ignore it, in favor of intimate conversation with a friend.

When seated, I noticed the dining tables were angled throughout the main room. The dining area was spacious, with high ceilings and large white columns offering a welcomed sense of privacy between tables. Black tables and chairs were accented with white china and clear glassed candles softly illuminating a dimly lit room. This restaurant pays attention to detail. The china, silverware and glasses are all of fine quality, adding to the ease and relaxation of the meal.

This venue reminded me of an Upper Eastside New York restaurant with its modern motif and simple black and white color scheme. This non-intrusive color scheme avoids distracting the diner from its real focus; gourmet dining with professional waiters.

The new dining menu has, according to Executive Chef Steve Samuels, been met with applause from Ambrosia diners. Diners will find a creative list of soups and salads to choose from. These dishes provide a perfect match for a cold winter's night in upstate New York.

My husband opted for the soup of the day, which he thoroughly enjoyed: Cultured Mussels in a light cream and saffron broth. As for me, I was warmed by the Potage of Winter Leeks and Potato Soup ($7.50). It was especially nice to begin an evening meal with light soups that did not diminish our appetites. Another popular soup on the menu is the Miso Soup ($5.00) with Dashi broth and Enoki and wood-ear mushrooms, bamboo shoots, green onions and tofu. Next we chose the Seared Beef Salad ($9) with lean sirloin, roasted shitake mushrooms, and winter greens tossed with a spicy peanut dressing as a salad. This salad is worth mentioning, with tender, thinly sliced beef and scrumptious marinated shitake mushrooms. It was delightful to the taste buds and I highly recommend it.

Other salads you may choose from include the more traditional Caesar Salad ($6.50), the Young Greens ($5.25), and the Japanese inspired Sesame-Seaweed Salad for $6.50.

Trying to select just one appetizer each was difficult because there were several tempting ones to choose from. As I peruse this menu, I am appreciative of the variety of dishes offered and melding of differing cuisines. My husband went with an all-time favorite the Tempura Calamari ($8), pacific calamari lightly battered and flash fried and served with fresh grated wasabi cocktail sauce. This calamari is some of the most delicately prepared I have had the pleasure of experiencing. Hats off to the chef!

The Taipei Crab Cakes ($8) provide another excellent choice. This blue crab and tiger shrimp is served with cilantro and citrus zest and plated with sambal aioli. Several other appetizers include Beef Satay ($7) in coconut milk and spices, Mozzarella Fritti ($7), Pork Winter Rolls ($7.00) served with mango/cranberry chutney, Mexicali Roll ($9.00), and Endamame ($5) traditional soybeans dusted with sel de mer (sea salt).
After so many deliciously creative opening dishes, who could imagine entrée dishes keeping pace with this diversified artistic flare. But Ambrosia did not disappoint. In fact, main courses are traditional fare melded with nouveau cuisine and accented with high-quality, interesting side-dishes.Each entrée boasted a reliable dish with a welcomed new twist.

My husband is a meat-eater; Ambrosia had him pegged. He selected the Hereford Delmonico Steak ($28) with caramelized onions, sautéed bell peppers, local-apple/sweet potato mash. His steak was cooked precisely to order. This cut of meat is especially tender and succulent due to the aging process that it undergoes by the Master Chef at Ambrosia. The side dishes provided a perfect accompaniment, adding color and texture to the presentation of this to this hearty fare.

Salmon is one of my favorite fish and I enjoy different preparations of many varieties of poisson de mer. The Pan-Roasted Salmon ($19), presented with fragrant jasmine rice and wok-tossed baby bok choy was a perfect choice for me.
Ambrosia has developed an artistic presentation style that is provocative to the eye and adds complementary side dishes that tantalize your senses of taste and smell.

Other main courses include Top Sirloin Steak ($19), Hereford New York Sirloin ($28), Filet Mignon ($25), Rack of Lamb ($22) plated with acorn squash risotto, Range Chicken basted in garlic with rustic polenta ($18), 5-Spice Seared Duck Breast ($19), Chilean Seabass ($22) with mushroom risotto, Seared Ahi Tuna ($19) Sashimi-grade tuna seared in a sesame crust, Penne al Vodka ($13), and Fettuccini al Greco ($21) with sun-dried tomatoes, kalamata olives, artichokes, feta, a touch of pesto, and with seared scallops. The restaurant serves generous portions for all courses of their meals.

Desserts are as unique as the rest of the meal. Ambrosia's manager encouraged us to try his one-of-a-kind Sushi Dessert. (No, there is no fish in it!) The manager and our attentive waitress, Carly both agreed that we would not be disappointed with this clever concoction created exclusively for Ambrosia by the Executive Chef. The Sushi Dessert is composed of bananas, blueberries, mango, and marzipan cheese in a soybean wrap, rolled in toasted coconut and presented with a light raspberry cream sauce. Fresh and exotic ingredients made for a new dessert experience, one that we thoroughly enjoyed. Take my word for it, try the Sushi Dessert.

While speaking to the manager John Sansone, we became aware of some new initiatives he is undertaking with the restaurant and they are worth mentioning here. Ambrosia has always been known for delivering an outstanding Sushi Bar and John has revamped the bar and created a Sushi Lounge with an authentic dining atmosphere. There are two master sushi chefs at Ambrosia and they are offering "Sushi 101" on Tuesday nights, teaching the culinary art of sushi techniques.

Ambrosia offers a regular lunch menu with a soup-of the-day and also a Sushi Lunch Menu. I counted eleven types of sushi roll and several combination plates. Rolls range from $2.75-$3.50 and plates price out at $5.95 and $6.95. A new marketing strategy that is quite successful is their Business Lunch-On the Fly. This imaginative menu has a wide selection of wraps, salads, and sushi that can be ordered 24 hours in advance for large groups of people. These orders serve 10-20-30 people and seem to be prefect for large business offices that need easy catering services.
Ambrosia is looking forward to the Dining Week in Syracuse promotion in late February. The details are being worked out, but look for advertising on this dining week that will offer a reasonable fixed-prix to many well know eateries in the community. They are hoping to have at least 22 area restaurants participate in the event and the meal will include an appetizer, entrée and dessert for a reasonable. This may be a nice way for you to discover Ambrosia.

Also look for the wine tasting promotion to be scheduled in February. Consult your Table Hopping Magazine for details. Ambrosia's Executive Chef is developing an evening whereby guests can taste five different wines while savoring a five course meal.

Finally, in the spring, you can look forward to Ambrosia hosting a weekly Sunday Brunch. With this new management team, the expansive windows wrapping the dining area, coupled with some warm spring sunshine, it should be a delightful Sunday Brunch at Ambrosias.
We highly recommend Ambrosia for your dining pleasure. You will enjoy the easy atmosphere, professional staff and excellent food. For reservations or more information about upcoming events, please call (315) 426-8800. Please mention that you read about Ambrosia in the Dining Out column of Table Hopping Magazine. Bon Appetit!