DINING OUT:
Ichiban (2/09)

by Nadine Van De Walker

Ichiban (View Map)
302 Old Liverpool Road
Liverpool, NY
(315) 447-0000

Ichiban owner, Chieygo Ogata, told us that at Ichiban, they take special care of children. This is because, she said, "Children bring the family in."
 
If our experience is any indication, this is definitely true!
 
It was a quiet Tuesday night, and it was early, but still, a good number of cars were in the large parking lot outside the Ichiban Japanese Steak House. The building is large and, except for one small peephole window (which we never found out about!) windowless. Cream stucco walls are accented with wooden beams, and while it's hardly oriental, it is spare and simple design.
 
Inside, guests can visit the bar, sit comfortably near a graceful rock garden, or shop for sauces and oriental gifts in a small showcase near the reception desk.
 
The floorplan is varied - rooms can be closed off for private parties, or opened up; there is a sushi bar, small tables that sit recessed into an elevated floor, and many various-sized hibachi tables. The interior decor is simple - stucco walls, a grey carpet, and simple paintings and photos on the walls. You're not there for the decor - you're there for the food, and the show.
 
The show, of course, is the food prep performed at your table by the hibachi chef.
 
But before the main attraction, our waitress, Sean, arrived to take our drink and appetizer orders. Smiling and helpful, she even found a list of ingredients for the ginger salad dressing the spicy mustard sauce that's served with the main course.
 
The bar features several domestic and Italian wines (by the bottle or glass) and a variety of specialty drinks for which many oriental restaurants are famous. Choose a Banzai - a Japanese martini made with Sake and gin ($4.95), or a Geisha Delight, created with coconut, pineapple and sake (with the souvenir mug, $8.95).
 
While we did opt for Gyoza (steamed, then lightly fried pork dumplings, $6.50), we chose the traditional Hibachi dinner, which comes with Hibachi shrimp flame, soup, salad, steamed rice, hibachi vegetables (onion and zucchini), your choice of meat or fish, and hot tea (price varies with meat/fish selection). I chose shrimp, and my companion selected scallops.
 
A full sushi menu is also available, as well as a variety of other choices on the standard dinner menu (Tempura, Yakizakana, and Teriyaki, for example). Children can choose from a special kid's menu, which includes things like chicken fingers ($5.95), chicken teriyaki ($6.75), or children's hibachi ($7.95 - 10.95).
 
As we mentioned, children are apt to want to see the entertainment!
 
While we ate our Gyoza (the combination of steaming and light pan frying results in a tender dumpling with just a hint of crispness, filled with lightly seasoned ground pork - six came arranged on a bed of fresh greens, and it was hard not to eat them all ) and salads, our chef began to prepare to cook our meal. The little girl who sat at our table was definitely excited to see Nick, the chef, arrive. She couldn't wait for the "Fire!" And the chef was happy to oblige.
 
Our salads were crisp and fresh, and the ginger dressing, slightly sweet and slightly spicy, did not overpower. Meanwhile, Nick began to prepare the fried rice. In his traditional red chef's hat and scarf, he dipped individual bowls of spicy mustard sauce and passed them around, then tossed the rice, finely diced carrots and bits of scallions onto the heated grill. He flipped eggs, balanced and broke them on the side of his spatula. With practiced motions, he turned, seasoned, portioned, and served heaping helpings of fried rice to the diner's who had ordered it. Normally, the hibachi meal comes with steamed rice - you can opt for fried rice for an additional charge of $1.95.
 
We were still busy with our salads, so we waited for the rest of the meal before diving into the rice. We also wanted to be sure to save lots of room!
 
Meanwhile, Nick de-tailed and cut generous portions of seasoned shrimp, which he cooked perfectly - they were not overdone, and the seasonings just slightly caramelized to add a light layer of chewiness to the shrimp.
 
As we ate these - ok, we were now eating the shrimp as fast as we could! - Nick continued the show as he sliced and diced and cooked the vegetables and individual portions of our meat or fish selections. At several points during the preparation, the grill was flamed, to the endless delight of all the diners, not just the under-ten crowd. More than that, he was able to clip the tails off shrimp, and in one motion, toss them into the air, where he caught them in a dish, with his spatula, or best of all, in his hat.

When our meat and vegetables were served, they were done to perfection. The scallops were tender and succulent; the shrimp firm and flavorful. The vegetables were just right – neither raw nor overcooked. A garnish of sprouts finished each plate.

The Ogatas (Chieygo and her husband Rick) are committed to quality ingredients, and feel that it makes all the difference between a good restaurant and a great one. Based on their longevity, they are clearly onto something. The Ichiban has been a popular destination for Central New York diners for over 20 years – and on a Friday or Saturday night, you will absolutely need a reservation! Weekdays are busy, but you won’t have to wait long to be seated, whether or not you have a reservation.

Chieygo’s brother was the first hibachi chef at Ichiban, and he was trained at Beni Hana. From that point on, all the chefs benefited from his training and experience. Chieygo explains that it takes about six months to get a chef ready for the floor of the restaurant. All the chefs, however, are trained to handle all the food specialties of the restaurant, including sushi preparation. Their work must be rewarding, because as Chieygo told us, many of the staff has been with Ichiban for 20 years, and many more at least 10 years.

By the time we were finished with our dinners, we were unable to eat dessert, though some delightful options were offered. As we left, amid other smiling patrons, a large holiday dinner group was just arriving. The restaurant can easily accommodate large groups, and offers just the right combination of fun and good food that’s guaranteed to entertain kids of all ages!